Why Skin Tone Affects Eyeshadow Visibility
Eyeshadow is a cosmetic product used to add color or depth to the eyelids. It comes in various finishes, including matte, shimmer, and satin. For models with darker skin tones, certain shades may appear muted or uneven depending on the product’s pigment level and undertone.
Pigment refers to the concentration of color in a product. Highly pigmented eyeshadows tend to show up more clearly, while low-pigment formulas may fade or blend into the skin. Undertone describes the subtle hue beneath the surface of the skin. Common undertones include warm (yellow or golden), cool (blue or red), and neutral (a mix of both).
When choosing eyeshadow, it helps to consider both the skin’s undertone and the depth of the complexion. For example, a warm brown with gold shimmer may enhance golden undertones, while a cool plum might contrast with red undertones. If the product lacks enough pigment, even a well-matched shade may not appear as intended.
Some makeup artists recommend testing eyeshadow on the back of the hand or wrist before applying it to the eyelid. This can help gauge how the color will appear once blended. Lighting also plays a role. Indoor lighting may soften shimmer, while natural light can reveal more contrast.
The team at Allure notes that deeper skin tones often benefit from rich, saturated colors that don’t require heavy layering. Their guide includes examples of shades that show up well without needing a primer.
Common Color Families That Work Well
Certain color families tend to complement darker skin tones more consistently. These include jewel tones, earthy neutrals, and metallics. Jewel tones refer to rich colors like emerald, sapphire, and amethyst. These shades often contain enough pigment to stand out without looking harsh.
Earthy neutrals include browns, terracottas, and deep oranges. These shades can add warmth and dimension without overwhelming the face. Metallics like bronze, copper, and gold reflect light and can highlight the eyelid’s shape.
Pastels and pale shades may require more layering or a base primer to show up clearly. A primer is a product applied before eyeshadow to help it adhere and appear more vibrant. Without a primer, lighter shades may fade or appear chalky.
Some brands offer palettes designed specifically for deeper skin tones. These often include a mix of matte and shimmer finishes, with colors chosen to complement a range of undertones. Byrdie highlights palettes that include warm neutrals and bold jewel tones, noting that these shades tend to perform well across a range of darker complexions.
How Makeup Artists Approach Color Matching
Professional makeup artists often begin by identifying the model’s undertone and eye shape. This helps determine which shades will enhance the eyes without clashing with the skin. For example, a model with warm undertones and almond-shaped eyes might benefit from copper tones blended into the crease.
The crease is the fold between the eyelid and brow bone. Applying a darker shade here can add depth. Lighter shades may be used on the lid or inner corner to brighten the eye. Some artists use a technique called “halo eyes,” where shimmer is placed in the center of the lid to create a rounded effect.
Blending is key. Even highly pigmented shades can appear uneven if not blended properly. Brushes with soft bristles help distribute color without streaks. Some artists use their fingers to apply shimmer, as the warmth of the skin can help the product adhere.
For editorial shoots, bold colors like electric blue or neon green may be used for dramatic effect. In everyday settings, softer tones like burgundy or olive may feel more wearable. The choice depends on the context and the model’s comfort level.
Essence offers examples of palettes used by professional artists, including those with deep mattes and reflective metallics. These selections are often chosen for their ability to show up clearly on darker skin without requiring multiple layers.
Tips for Trying New Shades Without Waste
Trying new eyeshadow shades can feel uncertain, especially if past experiences have led to disappointment. To reduce waste, some people start with single pans instead of full palettes. A pan is a small container of product, often sold individually. This allows for experimentation without committing to multiple shades.
Samples or mini sizes may also be available through certain retailers. These can help test pigment and texture before purchasing a full-size product. Texture refers to how the product feels and applies—some shadows are creamy, while others are powdery.
Using a primer or base can improve color payoff. Payoff refers to how much color appears on the skin after application. A white or neutral base may help pastel shades show up more clearly. For shimmer, a sticky base may help the particles adhere without fallout. Fallout occurs when loose pigment drops onto the cheeks during application.
If a shade doesn’t work as expected, it may still be useful as a transition color. Transition shades are used to blend between darker and lighter tones. They help create a smooth gradient and can soften harsh lines.
Some people repurpose eyeshadow as eyeliner by applying it with a damp brush. This can add definition without requiring a separate product. Others mix eyeshadow with lip balm or gloss to create custom lip colors. While not every shade will suit every purpose, experimenting can lead to unexpected results.
